Vegan Torta Della Nonna

This vegan torta della nonna, or ‘grandmother’s cake’, is traditional comfort food Tuscan-style. It comprises a lemon shortcrust filled with a creamy lemony set custard.

This recipe is very much in the cucina povera (peasant cooking) vein of homely and inexpensive food – although now that cucina povera is fashionable, it might also be the kind of thing you’d find on the menu of a trendy restaurant.

A conventional recipe would involve butter, milk or cream, and lots of eggs. Anyone used to baking with cashew cream will not be surprised by the rich, creamy flavour and texture you can achieve with just a handful of cashews in this entirely plant-based recipe.

It’s important to use large, unwaxed lemons and good quality vanilla extract (or seeds if you prefer) for a good flavour. Don’t be tempted to increase the amount of turmeric – it develops as it cooks and can easily turn an over-powering shade of yellow. Pine nuts are the traditional topping, but flaked almonds (as pictured) are a good stand in.

vegan torta della nonna…

Ingredients

for the custard

• zest of a large unwaxed lemon
• 65 g cashew nuts
• 40 g cornflour
• 40 g caster sugar
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• small pinch (no more than 1/16 tsp) turmeric powder
• 1/8 tsp salt
• 350 ml barista-style oat (or other plant) milk

for the shortcrust

• zest of a large unwaxed lemon
• 250 plain white/unbleached flour
• 70 g flavourless coconut oil
• 70 g vegan margarine (not a low fat variety)
• 60 g icing (confectioner’s) sugar
• a handful of pine nuts or flaked almonds

method

1. Make the custard in advance to give it time to cool (hot custard will soak into the pastry base). First, cover the cashews in boiling water. Once the water has cooled, drain them, add 100ml fresh water and blend until smooth. If your blender isn’t very powerful, this might take a few minutes.
2. In a microwaveable bowl or jug, mix the cornflour, sugar, vanilla, turmeric, salt and enough milk to form a smooth paste. Gradually add the rest of the milk, whisking as you go.
3. Carefully bring the custard to the boil in the microwave, stopping regularly to whisk it, and watching to ensure it doesn’t boil over.
4. Once it is just boiling and thickened, stir in the cashew cream and lemon zest. Set aside to cool completely.
5. Set the oven to 180°C/360°F. You will need an 8″/20cm pie dish or shallow cake tin.
6. To make the lemon shortcrust, first soften the coconut oil until it is a similar consistency to the margarine.
7. Place all ingredients except the pine nuts/almonds in a bowl and using a pastry blender, a fork, or your fingers blend/rub until all the oil and margarine is completely mixed into the flour.
8. Add one to two tablespoons of cold water – just enough to bring the dough together into a ball. Ideally, leave it to rest for half an hour before rolling.
9. Roll two-thirds of the pastry on a well-floured board and transfer to the tin. Press it gently into the tin and let it overlap the edge. (It doesn’t matter at all if the base breaks up en route and needs to be patched.) If you have time, stick the pastry in the freezer for fifteen minutes – it will help ensure the custard doesn’t soak in and the edges don’t shrink back.
10. Spoon the cold custard into the case and spread it around to create a level top.
11. Roll the remaining third of the pastry and transfer as carefully as you can to the top of the tin, pressing it around the edges to join to the bottom layer of pastry. Cut off the excess and pinch or press a fork all around the edge.
12. Pierce the top several times with a skewer or toothpick then sprinkle over the pine nuts/almonds.
13. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes until the top/edges are turning a deep golden colour. It will puff up in the oven and settle again when you remove it.
14. Allow the torta della nonna to cool completely before dusting with icing sugar and cutting. The custard needs that time to set. It will store well for a few days.

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